Monarch Divide
18-20 July 2001
by Bill Finch

I didn't get started until 9:40, but I felt good as I ascended the steep Copper Creek trail. It was my third trip of the year so I felt pretty good as I made my way thorough mixed pines and oaks. During a rest break, I took a photo of the Grand Sentinel across Kings Canyon. Toward the top of the lower switchbacks, I took another shot across the canyon. At the first water break, I had to fend off a small sow bear and her cub who attempted to get a handout. During lunch break at Lower Tent Meadow, I talked to a couple from Sacramento who had recently taken up hiking and were really impressed with Kings Canyon.

The next stop was Upper Tent Meadow where I took a photo of the trail that zigzagged through the flowers and meadow below. The ascent through the red fir forest above the meadow was accompanied by great views of the Gardiner Basin to the east. At the crossing into Granite Basin, I headed cross country to Grouse Lake. After dinner and a rest at the lake, I continued toward the pass leading to Kid Lakes. As darkness approached, I reached the pass and found a fine camping spot in the sand just west of the saddle.

After a cool night's sleep, I awoke at 6:30, had a quick breakfast, and headed over the pass into the Kid Lake's basin. It was the second time I had entered the basin and this time it was considerably more pleasant than the last. I was welcomed by a beautiful bouquet of columbines and the absence of snow on the north side of the pass made the descent into the basin routine instead of perilous. Soon I was at Lake 10,620 and looking back toward Goat Mountain and the pass. I noticed a gully leading across to the other lakes and decided to check it out. From the ridge top there was a great view of the route into Glacier lakes, but the descent to the other side was steep and didn't make the crossing much of a short cut. I ascended Kid Creek and arrived at the scenic uppermost lakes.

Route finding across the divide was not difficult. I passed a lovely pond as I made my way down to the uppermost Glacier lake. Views from uppermost Glacier lake are among the finest in the area. I savored them during a rest stop then proceeded past Lake 10,429 to the ridge separating it from the western string of Glacier Lakes. These two sets of lakes are so isolated from each other that it's hard to imagine why they don't have different names. As I crossed the ridge, I took a shot of Glacier Valley and its meandering stream far below.

The western Glacier lakes felt remote and there were few signs of visitors. The uppermost lake had a fine view of the ridge separating it from the eastern lakes. Next was Lake 10,172, another fine destination. The two large lakes are upstream from two miniature lakes, one a deep blue and the other fringed in grass. The descent, steep at first, leads through forest to the trail that connects Granite Pass and Simpson Meadow. I found it just a few dozen yards south of the turnoff to Kennedy Pass.

Once on trail, I headed quickly toward Volcanic Lakes, my destination for the evening. Dinner break was at a beautifully situated lake beside the trail. Briefly, I toyed with the idea of staying at this lovely spot but since there was plenty of light remaining, I pushed on to Volcanic Lakes. Mosquitoes began to plague me as I dropped toward the West Fork of Dougherty Creek and they continued to bug as I climbed past Lake 9,702. Fortunately, they began to thin out as I gained elevation and they were pretty much a bad memory by the time I found a camp spot a few hundred yards north of Lake 10,077.

The next day, I awoke to clear skies and beautiful lighting. After a quick breakfast, I was on my way to the Monarch Divide. I walked past Lake 10,199 and up to the highest lake in the chain. Having been into the basin a couple of times before on a route from Granite Pass, I decided it might be interesting to try something different. The crossing took more time than I thought it would but the views from the ridge top made the longer trip well worth it. Most of the Volcanic Lakes were visible to the north and Granite Lakes were to the south. The descent into Granite Basin was a little steeper than I anticipated, but soon I was passing by the lowest visible lake in the chain and on my way out to Cedar Grove.

For a map of the trip, click here.

Monarch Divide by Bill Finch