Mount Brewer was the first major peak climbed in the southern Sierra Nevada. Members of the Brewer Party of the Whitney Survey reached the summit of the 13,570 foot peak on July 2, 1864. The magnificent views allowed them to spot several peaks to the southeast that included the highest point in the young United States which they named Mount Whitney.

In addition to its historical importance, Mt Brewer's location allows views of most of the major peaks of Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. The approach and climb is not difficult. The Brewer Party's approach was a long one through the forest from the west. Today, a short approach from the Cedar Grove trail head allows the serious hiker to comfortably climb Brewer in a loop trip of three days.

The hike begins at the permit booth at road's end. The first couple of miles of trail is a slog through flat sand. A short descent into the South Fork Kings River flood plain brings the hiker to the Baily Bridge which crosses the river. Several more bridges are crossed, this time over Bubbs Creek, on the way to the base of the switchbacks that lead into Bubbs Creek Canyon.

The trail becomes gentle after passing the bridge that leads up Sphinx Creek to Avalanche Pass. It passes though alternating forest and brush with high canyon walls dominating views to the north and south. After the Charlotte Creek crossing, the canyon walls squeeze in. The trail remains on the north side of Bubbs Creek until Junction Meadow where it is crossed. East Creek is ascended partly on switchbacks, to lovely East Lakewhere on a clear day, there is a marvelous view of our goal, Mt Brewer. There are numerous campsites and two bear boxes at East Lake. If there is light, continue hiking up Ouzel Creek so it will be easier to make the summit during the morning of the next day.

As the summit is approached the next morning the way appears to be blocked. Upon moving closer, a way to the south side of the mountain comes into view. Soon it is time to begin the ascent to the summit up the south side. Even with a pack, the ascent is not difficult.

The forested plateau that the Brewer Party crossed to get here can be seen to the west. To the south, the Kaweah Peaks can be seen in the distance, the Great Western Divide in the middle ground and South Guard and South Guard Lake in the foreground. To the southeast lie the fourteen thousand foot peaks of the Whitney group. The puddle to the east is East Lake. The view to the northwest includes the Palisades in the distance with the peaks of the Gardiner Basin in the middle ground and Charlotte Dome just on the other side of Bubbs Creek. The view to the north includes North Guard in the fore ground with Mt Goddard and the Palisades on the horizon.

After taking in the marvelous views and taking photos, a descent down the north side is not difficult if there is not a lot of snow covering the slope. The talus is loose but not dangeous if you take your time.

The next leg of the trip involves some map work. The topo will guide you on a path that contours around to the pass into the Sphinx Creek drainage. The pass is easy if there is no snow in it and the descent into the Sphinx basin is a pleasant one decorated with patches of shooting star and yellow coumbine. After reaching the first lake in Sphinx Creek valley, the view to the south would include the pass you just crossed. You may notice some nice looking trout in the lakes. If you brought your fishing gear and its not too late, you will probably be able to catch dinner.

There are many lovely campsites next to the Sphinx Lakes. You will probably have company because this scenic area is very popular with cross country hikers as well as climbers on their way to or from Brewer and other nearby peaks. Watch out for marmots. One of them decided to make a meal of some of my gear and ate part of a plastic zipper out of my biouac sack before I chased him away. Even though the area is popular, you should be able to enjoy observing some fairly fearless creatures such as pikas, weasels, chipmunks, deer, and nuthatches. If you are lucky, you might be serenaded by a hermit thrush, my favorite singer in these parts.

Since the return to the trailhead from Sphinx Lakes takes only a few hours you can spend the next morning fishing, resting, exploring or just soaking in the fabulous views of the Spinx Divide and the Monarch Divide. If it's fairly clear, you may be able to see Mt Goddard far to the north.

If you have never descended Sphinx Creek, I recommend staying on the west side. I have tried both ways and the east side is quite brushy and broken up by periodic talus fields. There is a lot of evidence of travellers on the west side and you should have little trouble finding your way down. Eventually you will intersect the Avalanche Pass trail. After crossing Sphinx Creek, the trail descends the Sphinx Creek valley down its east side. After a relatively gentle descent on an impressive moraine covered by fragrant forest, the trail drops via switchbacks to the bottom of the canyon. On the way down there are great views of The Sphinx , named by John Muir for its resemblance to the one in Egypt. The next section passes through sage and penny royal. Some of the most impressive trail work in the range is built on the nose of steep, smooth granite the trail wraps around. The trail drops, ocassionally via stairs, into Bubbs Creek canyon. There are great views both upand down canyon.

After crossing the log bridge over Bubbs Creek, the loop is closed and a couple of hours hiking returns you to the starting point.